These are my favorite climbs in Joshua Tree up to 5.9! No distinction is made between sport vs. trad climbs or bolted vs. crack climbs. It’s all fun and games anyway, so I just picked the ones that had me smilin at the end. At first glance, it seems I gravitate towards the crack climbs, but there are a few bolted lines in each grouping as well. Routes highlighted in green are included in the Winger 60 Favorite Climbs guide. Depending on how the climbs are counted, looks like I’ve got about 28 routes that overlap with their list. 

The routes are grouped according to grade, and listed in descending order within each grade according to how much I liked each route. I think it makes sense to compare routes of a similar difficulty. Accordingly, my favorite routes at each grade are:

5.6 and Under: Route 66

5.7: Toe Jam

5.8: The Flake

5.9: North Overhang

 

5.6 and Under

  1. Route 66
  2. Fote Hog
  3. Double Dip
  4. Mike’s Books
  5. Upper Right Ski Track
  6. Southwest Corner
  7. The Bong / Beginner’s One
  8. Diagnostics
  9. Gargoyle
  10. Nectar
  11. False Lieback
  12. Filch

5.7

  1. Toe Jam
  2. Buissonier
  3. White Lightning
  4. Geronimo
  5. Dolphin
  6. Leap Year Flake
  7. Leaping Leaner
  8. Let Your Freak Flag Fly
  9. Double Cross
  10. Double Dogleg
  11. Mental Physics
  12. Hex Marks the Poot
  13. Lazy Day
  14. Asian Fever
  15. Scrumdillyishus / Frosty Cone / Mr. Misty Kiss
  16. Lickety Splits
  17. The Swift
  18. Classic Corner / False Classic Corner

5.8

  1. The Flake
  2. Walk on the Wild Side
  3. Dogleg
  4. Breakfast of Champions*** (???)
  5. Bambi Meets Godzilla
  6. Cakewalk
  7. Catch A Falling Star
  8. Sail Away
  9. 200 Motels / Taken For Granite
  10. Gem
  11. Planet X
  12. Nurn’s Romp
  13. Dinky Doinks
  14. The Sound of One Shoe Tapping
  15. Beck’s Bet

5.9

  1. North Overhang
  2. Touch and Go
  3. Pope’s Crack
  4. High Strung
  5. Colorado Crack
  6. Popular Mechanics / Ace of Spades
  7. Invisibility Lessons
  8. Continuum
  9. Strawberry Jam
  10. Room to Shroom
  11. Orphan
  12. Alice in Wonderjam
  13. Crack 5 / Grounder
  14. Championship Wrestling
  15. Damper

*** this is the only climb on the list I haven’t done (just guessed the list position)

Favorite Joshua Tree Climbs

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