Charybdis & Scylla

Charybdis & Scylla
4 July 2016

HAPPY BIRTHDAY AMERICA!

Craig, Eric, and I got together to complete a trip that had been in the works since this time last year. Back then forces conspired against us (too many peaks and too few weekends) and we never got around to visiting the fabled lost Ionian Basin. What better way to celebrate the birth of our nation than a romp across our greatest achievement, the National Parks. Thank you Teddy Roosevelt for walking around with a big damn stick. (For all you nerds, yes I realize this phrase was coined to describe his foreign policy, but … you get the point !!)

Highlights on this trip included:

The resemblance of Mt Solomons to Mt Rainier through our frosted tent window at Helen Lake.

Gawking at JMT hikers filming themselves hiking.

Eric chastising Craig and I to, ‘Never give uppy on McDuffie!’ to which Craig and I responded with an expletive that off-rhymes with McDuffie. (Backstory: Eric related to Craig and I the incredible chossiness of the north ridge of Mt McDuffie, inexplicably honored as a mountaineer’s peak by the Sierra Club. Eric’s friend had a hold break off, and in the mix-up he broke his finger and nearly fell off the mountain. This was plenty enough evidence for me and Craig to abandon any plans to climb the peak. It was a running joke throughout the day on Sunday which peak(s) we wanted to bag after Charybdis (McDuffie, Black Giant, Scylla, Fiske???).

Eric and I completely mis-communicating at the trailhead who was to carry which stove parts. I ended up carrying a big can of fuel with no stove to go with it! Thankfully Craig hooked us up and we ate well in the end.

Getting off route near the summit of Charybdis. Any beta that recommends traversing from the north summit to the higher south summit is incorrect. There is a gaping, impassable notch between the two. Instead of climbing up to the north summit, begin traversing across the face below the top and look for a cairn which will guide you to the left around an improbable corner, and up to the final moves to the higher south summit.

The incredible ruggedness of Ionian Basin. Craig and I got our money’s worth navigating by topo, compass, and altimeter over to Scylla. This peak is deep and well-worth the effort. I have never hopped so many rocks and suncups in my life.

Crossing huge snow bridges (only the ones we could visually determine the thickness) across cold clear gurgling streams below Helen Lake.

Creatively navigating swollen river crossings down the JMT.

Glissading down snowy hills to icy lakes.

Becoming too tired to swat mosquitoes in Dusy Basin.

Running into drunken hooligans with kayaks on their backs in the vicinity of Long Lake. ‘Hey you guys know if there’s a lake up there?’ ‘Yeah there’s a big one bro! Rock on!’ These guys had their priorities straight let me tell you.

Deciding in the first place to hike down into LeConte Canyon, across Dusy Basin, and over Bishop Pass back to South Lake (some 20 miles from our camp at Helen Lake) because it seemed EASIER than going back over Echo Col (our route over the Crest on the hike in).

Clinky, yet solid metamorphic scramble up the northwest slope of Scylla, culminating in a deep gaze into the Enchanted Gorge.

Numerous displays of hubris in the face of the mountain gods. Mythical references abounded due to the thematic naming of the region’s peaks.

Hitch-hiking with a friendly local woman back to Lake Sabrina. We decided to not even ask a quiet man we met hiking down the trail who grunted when we said hello. He gave off a distinct axe-murderer vibe, just something off about the fellow. A cross-eyed fisherman rejected our advances as well. And a nice couple with a big truck regrettably declined to give us a lift, citing their rush to get back to town, only to pack their vehicle for the next half hour. This was my first time hitch-hiking, and I count it as a valuable life experience. The woman’s name was Jeanie. I have never met anyone named Jeanie who is not just the nicest, motherly sweet kind free-spirited soul.

Visiting our old favorite post-hike gorging haunt, the Las Palmas in Bishop. Great service, great food, amazing fresh salsa bar (the salsa always flows like wine here), family-owned, this place has it all. I should look into getting this site sponsored by Las Palmas. Get the big man’s plate if your stomach hasn’t shrunk too much from all the hiking.

Beholding miles and miles of terrain (God’s country) few will look upon in any given year.

Taking part in a grand sufferfest with friends Eric and Craig who I had not seen for some time. Appropriately we passed over Nietzsche (<– see, enlightenment is attained through shared suffering) Col on the way back to camp at Helen Lake.

The trip ended way too soon, and I said goodbye to Eric and Craig. Every trip presents so many unforeseen challenges and possibilities. I can’t wait to meet again!

Charybdis & Scylla photo album