Mt Whitney — East Buttress
15 September 2016
This summer Erik, a climbing guide I’ve worked with in the past, generously offered to climb the East Buttress with me as equals, at least in spirit. No guide fees, just two dudes climbing the mountain. As they say in the business, my ‘stoke’ was high. So great to continue putting it all together and pushing the limits a little further each time. We climbed the East Buttress as a day hike from the Portal. This climb is very scramble-y with lots of huge ledges for comfy belays. The P3 belay above the second tower was probably the most memorable position on the route with lots of sun and air and all the great peaks on either side.
We took the ledge variation (down and around) to get going on P3 which involved delicately placing your foot on a little pedestal with at least a couple hundred feet of air below! This is a nice variation if you want to avoid the poorly-protected face climbing off the belay. The 5.7 fingers bit above the PeeWee was sweet. These moves left me wishing it lasted a little longer.
After about 6-7 pitches we were able to unrope and scramble to the summit. Might be some fifth class up here, but it is very blocky and easy to pick your way to the top. I got a two-for-one deal as I checked out the mountaineer’s route for the first time on the descent. It turned out to be your standard Sierra crud chute, but it’s a John Muir first ascent! Historic! To pass time in the chute Erik sang a song he wrote about Shackleton’s Antarctic exploits. We get along well as neither of us have much regard for the limitations imposed by ‘normal’ conversation and social conventions.
After getting some good chow at the Totem Cafe (we were lucky they stayed open late since the hiking season was winding down), I drove up to the old Taboose Creek Campground to meet Bill and Craig. Tomorrow we were headed back to Bishop Pass and the great and terrifying Palisade Basin. I would need a good night’s sleep before embarking on yet another clash with THE WHITE WHALE.