Charlotte Dome — South Face
29 May 2021
Ting and I climbed the South Face of Charlotte Dome to kick off another summer Sierra season. The snowpack was very low this year and we encountered very little on the whole approach over Kearsarge Pass. Usually Memorial Day weekend is prime time for a snowy couloir climb!
I considered this trip the logical extension of our annual adventure series. Last spring Ting and I bike-packed to Voodoo Dome in the Needles, which in retrospect has taken on a special significance as the entire region burned badly later that year. As Robert Frost says, ” nothing gold can stay ” , from one of the saddest poems of all time.
Charlotte had a similar vibe to Voodoo in a lot of ways. Both climbs are low angle and not even remotely burly. No need to throw down hard! Better to use your head instead. The rock on each is bulletproof and remarkably featured — every type of jug and pinch and incut edge just where you want ’em.
The eastern approach worked out very conveniently for us and I can’t imagine the western approach would be very desirable, as the camp spot is WAY down in the canyon (like 2000 feet down, yikes!). For the eastern approach, you set up shop on a perfect flat bench east of the dome by a creek. Reaching the base of the climb from your camp involves a gentle stroll down the slabs and only takes an hour or so at a leisurely pace. The descent is even shorter — your tent is essentially at the base of the descent gully. Speaking of, make sure you go far enough north down the ridge before turning right down the gully. You’ll want to skirt the edge of the forest on the slabs. If you try going down too soon right off the summit, the slabs cliff out!
As for the climb, we were probably on the move about 8 or 9 hours from camp to camp. The first few pitches are characterized by easy slabbin although the first pitch was surprisingly tricky! Maybe we just had to wake up? Only one pitch was PG — the dreaded slab pitch — pitch 7 for us — the one sandwiched between the steep chimney before and furrows pitch after. Ting handled the dreaded slab quite professionally, thoughtfully. It was difficult to discern where to go, and pro was scarce with moves solidly in the 5.8 range. I was glad I had taken my shoes off so I could sun my toes while Ting worked through this one. What a proud lead!
The furrows pitch immediately afterward was my favorite on the whole route. Steep jugs with pro aplenty between the MEGA blades of rock. A rope stretcher that landed us on a cozy ledge where we could watch Mt Brewer getting hammered by rain! Lucky us the storms never crossed Bubbs Creek!
I drew the final pitch as well (sensing a theme here, those even pitches sure were sweet!) and decided to step right onto a steeper, more intimidating rock face — but once again, one that was peppered with edges and solid gear placements. The perfect cap to a wonderful climb high in the backcountry!
Postscript. The next day Ting and I bagged Mt Gardiner. It’s a Sierra Club Mountaineer’s Peak and deservedly so. The last section consisted of a fine knife edge ridge traverse. Stout for 4th class.
Post-postscript. I guess it’s time to brainstorm possibilities for next year’s edition of our adventure series! I liked the novelty of using bikes as approach vehicles. Maybe ski-pack … somewhere far away …
